Glenmore Lake on the Beara peninsula, County Kerry.  This area is unbelievably tranquil—you’d never know you were in the most touristy county in Ireland.  (I spent the night in a hostel converted from a schoolhouse built in the 1880s.  There wasn’t a soul in the place but me that night, not even the owner.  I was more than a little spooked, truth be told…)